Tuesday, August 5th, 2008
Malls. You will be able to see them everywhere in Beijing during the Olympics. Retail season will be in full swing and many shopping venues plan to extend their hours to accommodate all the extra visitors.
Sure, it will be exciting to see the “new” China; the place that has embraced capitalism and all things western (well, malls and Starbucks at least). It will be even nicer because many malls will have the air-conditioning cranked up to fight the oppressive summer heat.
But what about the staple souvenirs of China’s pre-Olympic days? What about the silk that once provided the country with its wealth and was a must-buy for anyone visiting the Middle Kingdom?
It is still easy, with a little care, a little research, and a lot of common sense, to find cheaply priced, good quality silk in Beijing.
The Silk Market, a seven-storey emporium popular with tourists, is a good place to start your silk search. There is much more on offer than just silk, but the famed textile has center stage. This is the place to come for cheap prices and good merchandise. But, the first price quoted by the silk seller will be extremely high. Like most “old school” markets in the city, you are expected to bargain at the Silk Market. Therefore, the basic knowledge of what a certain item should cost can be of benefit.
State-run stores like Beijing Yuanlong Silk Corporation offer quality products. The prices might seem high, but a browsing session can give you an idea of price ranges of silk products.
Markets like Xiushui and Yabalu Market offer decent products that you can bargain down to reasonable prices. Smaller markets might not have as much to choose from, but are often less crowded. The sellers take a less aggressive approach to bargaining.
Tuesday, August 5th, 2008
Lao She Teahouse (3 Qianmenxi Dajie) is a cultural institution. It is more than a spacious, atmospheric teahouse; at least, it is when Beijing’s finest singers come around to perform selections from the classics of Beijing-style opera.
The venue is named after Lao She, a Chinese writer who penned a famous play called, Teahouse (Mandarin Chinese: Cha Guan). Lao She’s Teahouse is an attempt to recreate the classic Chinese social sites that are celebrated in the play.
Lao She died during the Cultural Revolution. He might have been murdered or driven to suicide because of the anti-literary sentiment in 1960s China. However, today he is celebrated as one of China’s greatest authors and dramatists.
However, this teahouse has taken on a life of its own. The acoustics, spacious seating area, and lighting make it an intimate performance space. Beijing opera is a unique performance art that is not at all like its European counterparts.
There is also food and drink at Lao She’s. The main item on the menu is, of course, tea. There are also plenty of snacks and tasty treats. Steamed dumplings (Baozi), dates, and a variety of authentic pastries are favorites.
Opera performances take place in the evenings. Check the website www.laosheteahouse.com (requires Flash player) for exact times. It will surely be quite crowded during the Games.
The owner of Lao She’s Teahouse is friends with some of China’s best contemporary painters, including Qi Baishi, whose likeness is displayed alongside Lao She’s inside the restaurant. Aside from opera singers, comedians, jugglers, acrobats, and contemporary music sometimes take the onstage.
There is a display room off the main dining area. Kites, jade carvings, and other crafts are displayed inside.
There are many reasons to visit Lao She’s. Sure, the opera performances are a big draw, but other performances, art, and atmosphere also make this a worthwhile visit.
Tuesday, August 5th, 2008
While there will be a glaringly strong spotlight on all things new during the Beijing Olympics, there is no escaping the fact that China’s capital is a place of deep history. This is no secret to would-be Olympic travelers. They can take a break from athletics to visit some of China’s ancient sites. The problem at these famous venues: overwhelmingly large crowds. With all these people, Forbidden City might seem more like Disneyworld on the 4th of July than a 500-year-old imperial compound.

Luckily, some Beijing historical sites will not make it onto most itineraries. One of the biggest of these is Beihai Park. A 10 yuan entrance fee (could be hiked up during the games) will get you access to Beijing’s greatest park; one that was 1000 years in the making.
Beihai is 175 acres and is divided into 4 areas: Jade Flower Island, Chengguang Hall, the eastern bank area, and the northern bank area. Over half of the park is covered by waterways.
Jade Flower Island is home to several 500-year-old temples and pavilions. The scenery is the stuff of ancient Chinese paintings: rocks and aged trees stand next to ponds and pavilions begging to be photographed.
Chengguang Hall was once a garden and home to elegant Ming Dynasty celebrations. Inside the hall sits a huge wine vessel that was used by the famed Kublai Khan (son of Genghis Khan), the first Yuan dynasty ruler.
The eastern banks of the park are very quiet. This is the best place to catch up with nature and get away from the crowds. The northern bank is full of intricately decorated pavilions and over one thousand status of Buddha.
Beihai Park is usually crowded with locals. Savvy tourists will probably be planning to go there during the Games. If the crushing crowds of the Forbidden City and National Museum are too much, Beihai might be a good bet.
Wednesday, July 30th, 2008
Even “budget” hotels will be raising their rates during the Olympics. With most of their four and five star brethren near capacity already, sleeping venues at the lower end of the hotel price spectrum are set for an influx of visitors.
As anyone who has traveled on a budget knows, finding accommodation that is both good and cheap can be tricky, even if your standards aren’t very high.
Here are a few hotels/guesthouses that earn high marks for quality and service despite their reasonable prices.
1. Youth Hostels are scattered throughout the city. Leo’s Hostel (Tie Shu Xie Jie) is known for its lively scene. The rooms are Spartan, to be sure, but the bar is lively, and any place that has a Playstation in the lobby can’t be all that bad. Beijing City Central Youth Hostel is the cleanest, most convenient (in terms of location and sevice), and most popular hostel in town. There is a 24-hour convenience store, internet access, and an English speaking staff.
2. Experience life in Beijing’s famous Hutong (networks of alleyways) at Beijing Houhai Courtyard (Sanbulao Hutong). Single rooms only cost 15 bucks (non-Olympic rates), with shared rooms going even more cheaply. The guesthouse offers tea in the courtyard, tours of the surrounding area, and bicycle rental.
3. Another hutong hotel is Beijing Join Inn (Qinmao Hutong, just off Zhaodengyu Ave). It is a rarity in Beijing for more than its clever name. Located in the hutong, but near a main road and a subway station, it offers proximity to both old and new Beijing. Where else can you find both a McDonald’s and a hutong noodle stall within walking distance?
Even though many budget travelers prefer to shoot from the hip and not book in advance, booking before the Olympics is a must. Beijing City Central Youth Hostel is the most coveted spot. It will undoubtedly be filled to capacity for the duration of the games. So booking early is a necessity.
Wednesday, July 30th, 2008
Beijing will be packed during the Olympics. The main tourist attractions will be more densely populated that Disney World during high season. Where can you go to get away from the crowds? Between August 8th and 24th, such an escape might not be possible.
Unless, that is, you are prepared to travel beyond Beijing’s city limits. Beijing has a little known sister city, Tianjin. It is a populous town, but has somehow managed to miss the tourism renaissance felt in Beijing, Shanghai, and China’s other major cities.
Though not as tourist friendly a destination as Beijing, Tianjin is the prefect place too get a glimpse of the real China. Beijing will have on its make-up for the Olympics. Tianjin just might be the perfect place to get behind the façade.
The river city can be reached easily from Beijing. High-speed train and bus service is cheap and the distance is covered quickly.
But what can you do once you get there?
The Ancient Cultural Street hosts a huge market. It rivals many of Beijing’s markets in terms of atmosphere and options for souvenir searching. Bargaining is aggressive, even when compared to Beijing. You will be expected to negotiate hard for any purchase.
Tianjin is cheaper than Beijing in general. Even inflated tourist prices will seem cheap after a visit to Beijing.
Tianjin has many schools and universities. Thus, there is a youthful party scene, especially at bars and clubs near major universities. The cream of the dancing crop can be found at clubs with names like Scarlet, Seven, New York Bar, and Sitong Bar.
Hotels in Tianjin might leave a little bit to be desired, but you will probably be able to find decent rooms even after Beijing’s lowliest guesthouse lights up its No Vacancy sign. Tianjin First Hotel and Astor Hotel populated the budget end of things, while the city’s Hyatt and Sheraton offer 4-star accommodations.
Wednesday, July 30th, 2008
During the Olympics, souvenir hunters will have ample opportunity to pick up sports-related material. But what about some Chinese folk art, antiques, or hand made crafts? There will be plenty of knick-knacks for sale from vendors around Olympic venues and in Tiananmen Square. You’ll have to bargain hard to get a good deal, but these trinkets are harmless as long as you don’t expect something authentic.
Higher priced versions of these souvenirs can be found in some of the malls around Tiananmen.
But THE place to find keepsakes is The Pan Jia Yuan Flea Market. The sheer number of vendors makes this the perfect place for some window-shopping of Olympic proportions. The vendors here offer everything from cheap plastic replicas of the terra-cotta warriors of Xian to priceless authentic antiques. To find the real deals, you’ll have to be a bit of an expert in Chinese antiques and also have some luck on your side. One could wander for several days and still not see everything that is for sale.
Bargaining is a must at Pan Jia Yuan. There can sometimes be a language barrier, so some tourists find it useful to carry a small calculator on which to type offers and counter offers. Bargaining can be a bit frustrating, but it is important to remain calm and polite. Getting to the price you want might take some time, but it is all part of the experience. Of course, if you engage in the bargaining proceeds, a vendor will eventually expect you to buy. Don’t simply start bargaining for the fun of it.
Pan Jia Yuan is locared at 18 Hua Wei Li, Pan Jia Yuan Road. It is only open on Saturday and Sunday, and can get quite crowded, so it is best to arrive early in the morning.
Tuesday, July 29th, 2008
Despite its pollution and sometimes-harsh winters, Beijing is a city of parks and gardens. While estimates suggest that the number of visitors during the Olympic Games could reach seven figures, these parks will remain bastions of calmness amidst the bustle of the festivities.
Beihai Park is Beijing’s version of New York’s Central park, only with thousand-year-old structures and religious icons. It is a favorite of locals and has enough sites and greenery to attract both sightseers and those seeking a break from the Olympic and tourist activities.
Venture further outside the city center, though, and visitors will find the Beijing Botanical Gardens. It is adjacent to the 5th Ring Road, but is easily reached from the city center on Xiangyi Road or by city bus (there are no less than 10 that stop at the Gardens). Entry into the gardens is a mere 5 yuan, making it one of the cheaper sites in the city.
The grounds themselves are not as expansive as visitors might expect. But there is a 13-room greenhouse and over 3,000 species housed within the gardens.
Inside the greenhouse, the displays include:
1. An evergreen garden
2. Tropical marshland plants (including water lilies and lotuses)
3. Plants used in agriculture like rubber trees, cocoa plants, and coffee bushes
4. An exhibit of medicinal plants that are so much a part of China’s medical history.
5. Several rooms are dedicated to ornamental plants that are bred either for their appearance or for their scents.
There is an educational aspect to the Botanical Gardens. There is an 11,000 square foot Specimen House featuring rare and unusual plants that have been collected in China over the years. There are also working research facilities where plants are classified, bred, and studied.
One of the most popular gardens is the Peony Garden. These beautiful flowers are known throughout China.
Tuesday, July 29th, 2008
Before it became the host city for the 2008 Olympics, Beijing was known amongst tourists for its strong sense of history. China’s current capital was a political and religious center long before countries like the US and Australia were ever established. Though modern buildings have overtaken the aged cityscape, there are still some historic sites in Beijing that attract visitors because the offer a glimpse into China’s vibrant past.
Aside from the Forbidden City, the best-known historic site in Beijing is The Temple of Heaven.
The Temple of Heaven is actually larger than the Forbidden City because the emperor who built it (in 1420, during the Ming dynasty) did not dare make his palace bigger than the city’s most important religious site.
The most easily recognizable structure is the Qiniandian. It was where the rulers would come to pray for a good agricultural season and an abundant harvest. There are 28 columns inside the temple. 4 represent seasons, 12 represent the months of the year, and 12 represent the hours of the day (in 15th century China, the day was divided into 12 equal parts, each one two hours long).
The Imperial Vault is another structure you might have seen on postcards and coffee table books. Its roof resembles an umbrella. Here, the emperor would place etched stone tablets that were made as memorials to the gods.
One area popular with tourists is the three Echo Stones. They are located at equal distances outside the Imperial Vault. Standing on the first one and speaking towards the Imperial Vault, you hear one echo. Standing on the second and speaking, you hear two echoes. On the third and final stone, anyone who shouts in the correct direction will be able to hear three echoes. No one knows if this was figured out by trial and error of by some sort of calculation.
Tuesday, July 29th, 2008

Beijing was a thoroughly modern city even before it started preparing to host the 2008 Olympics. It has one of the highest concentrations of 5-star hotels in Asia, and the most in China, save Hong Kong. These hotels will be filled during the Games, but those lucky enough to get a room will not be disappointed by the luxury.
Here is a sample of Beijing’s best:
1. Hotel Kunlun (2 Xin Yuan Nan Lu) is located in Chao Yang District. Though not the center of Beijing, it is the economic heart of the city. Embassies, office complexes, nightlife, and malls (including the plush Yansha Lufthansa Shopping Center) are all within walking distance of the Kunlun. The hotel boasts a superior concierge, spa services, a four-star restaurant, and a massive swimming pool.
2. The Peninsula Beijing (Goldfish Lane, Wangfujing District) has a traditional Chinese exterior. The theme continues on the interior, but there is no mistaking the modern luxury offered by this five-star venue. The hotel has two hip restaurants, massage and beauty services, and its own upscale shopping street, The Peninsula Arcade.
3. Swissotel Beijing (Chao Yang District) is another embassy district gem. They have everything you’d expect from the brand, and some delightful extras. Swisscafe, the in-house restaurant, serves some of the best fusion cuisine in town. They have an exercise center and spa/massage services.
4. Raffles Beijing (Chang An Avenue, Wangfujing) is an historic and centrally located inn. It is within walking distance of Tiananmen Square and The Forbidden City. Despite its modern amenities, Raffles oozes old school charm. Intimate restaurants like Jaan and La Vie bring to mind a classy, bygone era. The classic experience can also be had in one of the 9 landmark suites.
Despite being out of most visitors’ price range, Beijing’s 5-star hotels are expected to be filled to capacity during the Olympics.
Tuesday, July 29th, 2008
Being a major international city, Beijing has plenty of nightlife areas. The city’s nightclubs, discos, and bars will probably be inundated with Olympic tourists out to make the most of their Beijing trip.

For those in search ofan area that offers more than the run-of-the-mill travelers’ scene, there is Sanlitun. Located in the eastern part of the city, this area has long been popular with expats because of its proximity to the district that houses embassies and foreign companies. Savvy tourists and hip Beijingers choose Sanlitun for its hip
vibe and festive atmosphere.
The area is not a new addition to the city. It has a history; beginning with the fact that it has been the location of foreign embassies since the 1950s. The then-new communist government wanted to place all embassies together in an area outside the city enter. In the 1980s, as economic and social restrictions eased, some hotels in the area opened bars. A few years later, stand-alone venues began appearing on Gongti Street. As the area became more and more popular with well-heeled expats, more bars and clubs joined the fray.
Despite the good-time vibe and the ability to move from venue to venue (bar crawl, if you will), Sanlitun has a downside. Prostitution and drug use have long been cited as reasons for frequent police raids. Security cameras are installed along Gongti Road and the local authorities have been known to shut places down for the evening because they merely suspect wrongdoing.
That said, most bar and club owners will surely be increasing security and keeping activities on the up-and-up during the Games. There is simply too much revenue at stake. Those seeking a casual good time should definitely give Sanlitun a try.